FIRST JOURNEYS - 80 GINS AROUND THE WORLD - PIN 19 OF 80
KATUN GIN, Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico
AROUND THE WORLD, ONE BOTTLE AT A TIME,
PHILEAS FOGG WOULD SURELY APPROVE
Time to leave America and head south to the Yucatán Peninsula, where we're entering tequila and mezcal territory.
However, more and more distillers across Central and South America are proving that gin deserves a place on the map too.
Our next stop is Mérida, affectionately known as La Ciudad Blanca (The White City), renowned for its elegant colonial architecture, vibrant markets and rich Mayan heritage. Hidden behind an old taqueria in the historic centre, a secret door leads into Malahat—an underground speakeasy and jazz bar co-owned by Roberto Briceño, the creator of Katún Gin.
Even the bar's name has a story, taking inspiration from the legendary steamship Malahat, which gained notoriety for smuggling whisky during Prohibition—a fitting nod to a hidden cocktail bar.
Roberto was previously a co-owner of Bruxo Mezcal and, after leaving the business, returned to his family's home city of Mérida. Together with friends Augusto, Cristian, Raúl and Javier, he set out to create a distinctly Mexican gin that would capture the essence of Yucatán. Staying true to that vision, every spirit served at Malahat is proudly made in Mexico, with Katún naturally taking centre stage.
After around a year of research and recipe development, Katún Gin was launched in 2017 and is distilled at Conkal Distillery, just outside Mérida. The recipe features 17 botanicals, many of which are familiar ingredients in traditional Yucatecan cooking.
Alongside juniper are four varieties of regional chilli, native herbs, citrus and spices, all sourced from Yucatán or elsewhere in Mexico. The botanicals are macerated for around ten days before distillation, the spirit is rested for a month, then bottled at 42% ABV using naturally filtered water drawn from the peninsula's limestone aquifer—the same underground water system that feeds Yucatán's famous cenotes.
Cenotes are one of the natural wonders of the Yucatán Peninsula: crystal-clear sinkholes formed when limestone collapsed to reveal underground freshwater pools. Sacred to the Maya for centuries, they provided fresh water and were believed to be gateways to the underworld. It seems rather fitting that water filtered through this ancient limestone should find its way into a gin so deeply rooted in the region.
Katún is rich, aromatic and wonderfully expressive. There's just enough warmth to remind you those chillies are there, balanced by citrus, vanilla and gentle spice before finishing smooth with a little tingle on the tongue. Juniper takes a supporting role, allowing the local botanicals to tell the story. Close your eyes while sipping and it's easy to imagine yourself wandering through Mérida's bustling markets, where many of the ingredients that inspired the recipe can still be found.
The beautiful hand-drawn label deserves almost as much attention as the gin itself. Every element tells part of the story. A katún represents a 20-year cycle (7,200 days) in the Mayan calendar, marking the close of one era and the beginning of another.
The artwork features the Dziu, the bird said to have risked its life rescuing seeds after the God of Fire burned the cornfields; the Sun God, who transformed into a jaguar to journey through the underworld at night; the Tolok (iguana), a familiar sight basking in the Yucatán sunshine; and the sacred Ceiba tree, one of the most important symbols in Mayan culture. Believed to connect the underworld, the earth and the heavens, it was regarded as the Tree of Life and remains a powerful emblem throughout Mesoamerica. It's an intricate label that rewards a closer look and perfectly reflects the spirit inside the bottle.
“Behind a secret door lies the spirit of Yucatán.”
Roberto's favourite cocktail may be a Negroni, while the Bee's Knees is becoming increasingly popular at Malahat, but for me this gin really shines in a simple G&T, where those wonderful Yucatecan botanicals can do all the talking.
"Show me a bottle
and I'll tell you a story."