THE GIN PASSPORT ATLAS - DISTILLERY STORY- PINNED ON THE MAP - EUROPE

The Secret Location


I love a good backstory, particularly when there are a few secrets to uncover, so G.H.Q. Spirits immediately caught my attention.


The brand likes to keep things suitably mysterious, describing its spirits as being handcrafted at an undisclosed location somewhere in the Scottish Highlands by agents working to secret recipes. There may or may not be a lost loch involved. Naturally, I'm saying nothing.


The reality is slightly less cloak-and-dagger, although no less interesting.


G.H.Q. Gin is produced in Aberdeenshire at Lost Loch Spirits, near Aboyne, where founder James McNeill worked with distillers Peter and Rich to develop the spirit. The distillery uses a 500-litre iStill and water from the Cairngorms, with the emphasis very much on precision and consistency.


G.H.Q. was officially launched in November 2020, although the idea had been brewing for some time. James had originally planned to develop the brand in London, but the pandemic changed those plans and sent the project north.


It was perhaps an appropriate move. James has family connections to Angus and the north-east of Scotland, so working with a Scottish distillery gave G.H.Q. both a sense of place and access to some rather good Scottish distilling expertise.


The inspiration for the whole brand comes from James's love of books, films and the stories his grandmother told about her time as a dispatch rider during the Second World War. G.H.Q. stands for General Headquarters, and the branding plays heavily on the world of wartime agents, secret missions, codes and clandestine meetings.


It is all wonderfully theatrical.


Even the water has a secret-agent story, apparently coming from an ancient Highland spring and having spent decades filtering through underground rock before joining the G.H.Q. team. I'm beginning to suspect this gin has a more interesting life than most of us.

Beneath all the espionage, G.H.Q. Gin is actually a very serious drink.


It is a 41% ABV London Dry-style gin, designed around a classic juniper profile but with a contemporary citrus and spice twist. The key botanicals include juniper, kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass and black pepper.


The nose is bold and juniper-led, with citrus and floral notes. On the palate it becomes brighter, with lemon, herbs and gentle spice, before drying out to leave a long, refreshing finish.

It is definitely not one of those gins where the tonic needs to do all the work.


The recommended serve is refreshingly uncomplicated: 50ml G.H.Q. Gin, 150ml quality tonic, plenty of ice and a wedge of lime. It can also be served straight from the freezer if you prefer your gin cold, crisp and without any distractions.


Naturally, I couldn't leave it there.

For my weekend mission, I made a Covert Clover, a twist on the classic Clover Club. The raspberries and grenadine bring colour and sweetness, while lemon and sweet vermouth add the acidity and complexity. The egg white gives it that lovely silky texture.


COVERT CLOVER

3 parts G.H.Q. Gin
⅔ part lemon juice
½ part grenadine syrup
⅔ part sweet vermouth
A handful of fresh raspberries
1 egg white or vegan foamer

Wet shake, then dry shake before double straining into a chilled glass.

I've deliberately given the recipe in parts rather than millilitres. If you're out on a mission without your trusty jigger, simply use the bottle cap and improvise. Very covert.


G.H.Q. has certainly committed to the theme. The bottles, language and cocktails all feel like part of the same slightly bonkers secret-agent world.

The gin itself, thankfully, needs no disguise.



Mission accomplished.

"The Mission, should you choose to accept....."




Show me a bottle and

I'll tell you a story.






UNDERCOVER P.S.M.

60ml G.H.Q. Vodka
30ml Passoã
15ml lime juice
15ml sugar syrup
Flesh of 1 passionfruit

Shake everything with ice and strain into a chilled coupe. Top with sparkling rosé or bubbles and garnish with half a passionfruit.