FIRST JOURNEYS - EASTERN EUROPEAN EXPEDITION- PIN 01 OF 17
DRY AS A NUN GIN - Distillers Republic, Riga, Latvia
A ROAD TRIP WHERE EVERY STOP HAS A STORY
Who came up with a Latvian gin called Dry as a Nun, why is there a nun on the bottle, and how did the idea grow into cocktails called Nun Nun Nunnnnn and Holy Sheets?
If you're going to start a journey through Eastern European gin, Latvia feels like a rather good place to begin. It is a country of forests, wetlands, meadows and wild landscapes, where juniper has been part of the natural and cultural landscape for centuries.
Common juniper grows naturally across Latvia, particularly in open woodland, pastures and dry grasslands. Its berries have traditionally been used as a seasoning and for making jams, while juniper wood was useful for everything from fencing to household objects. Branches were also burned, with the smoke traditionally believed to ward off evil spirits. Latvian folklore contains numerous references to plants and their uses, and juniper is one of the more frequently recorded species.
So there is something rather fitting about beginning an Eastern European gin journey here. Juniper isn't simply an ingredient that happens to be required in gin; it belongs to the landscape and has its own history within Latvian life.
The landscape provides plenty of inspiration for today's distillers too. Latvia's forests offer pine, berries and a wealth of wild botanicals, giving modern gin makers an opportunity to capture something of the country's terroir in the bottle.
Distillers Republic has embraced that connection particularly well. Their Pine Buds Gin uses pine buds harvested in Latvia alongside juniper, cardamom and coriander, bringing the character of the Latvian forest into the spirit. Their classic expression takes a more traditional route, combining juniper berries with orange peel, coriander and cardamom. The juniper used in their gins comes from North Macedonia, another reminder that the botanicals in our glasses often have their own journeys long before they reach the distillery.
Behind Distillers Republic are Gints Stradiņš and Benjamin Shane Northey, whose backgrounds are rooted more in hospitality and experimentation than traditional distilling.
Gints is the man responsible for production and recipes, while Shane has been involved in the wider hospitality side of the business. Their approach feels very much like a meeting of the two: a bar where people can drink, experiment and discover spirits, alongside a small distillery making its own.
Their story began with experiments in a country garage, playing around with different ways of preparing drinks. One experiment led to another and the idea gradually grew into something considerably bigger.
The bar opened in Riga in April 2019, with the distillery following in early 2020.
The location of their bar and distillery adds another intriguing layer to the story. Distillers Republic sits in the heart of Old Riga, surrounded by buildings that have witnessed some extraordinary chapters of the city's history.
Just a short walk away is St John's Church, first mentioned in 1297 and once part of the Dominican complex. It has one of Riga's more macabre legends. In the 15th century, two Dominican monks supposedly wanted to become saints so badly that they had themselves walled alive into the church. Food was passed to them through a hole in the wall, but their sacrifice apparently failed to earn them sainthood. A cross-shaped opening in the exterior wall is said to commemorate the two would-be saints. Whether the story is fact or folklore, it has become part of the church's history.
Then there is St Peter's Church, first mentioned in 1209 and one of Riga's great landmarks. Its enormous tower has had a turbulent history, being struck by lightning, burned and rebuilt several times. During the Second World War, artillery fire on 29 June 1941 destroyed the church's roof and tower, and the interior was badly damaged by fire. The tower was eventually reconstructed with a metal framework, and the church we see today is the result of decades of restoration.
A few streets away is Peitav Synagogue, built in 1903–05 and the only synagogue in Riga to survive the Holocaust. When the Nazis occupied the city in 1941, Riga's other synagogues were destroyed. Peitav survived because its position in the densely built Old Town meant that burning it risked setting the surrounding buildings alight. Instead, it was turned into a warehouse. Remarkably, the Torah scrolls survived too, with the eastern wall and Torah ark protected; their preservation is credited in part to Gustav Shaurums, the pastor of the nearby Reformed Church. Worship resumed after the war, and during the Soviet era it remained one of the few functioning synagogues in the USSR.
All of this makes the rather playful religious imagery on the gin bottle feel even more intriguing. I've asked the distillery if they can shed some light on the story, so perhaps the mystery will eventually be solved. For now, I'm happy to leave that particular rabbit hole open.
What isn't mysterious is the reception the gin has received. Distillers Republic has collected awards from major international spirits competitions, including Gold recognition at the International Wine & Spirit Competition and Gold at the London Spirits Competition, alongside other medals and awards across its range.
Why Dry As a Nun?
Atlas Note: I'm waiting to hear from Distillers Republic about the story behind the branding. If they come back with something good, I'll add it here. Because, obviously, now I really want to know.
"Show me a bottle
and I'll tell you a story."